Fabric philosophy
Integrated with the natural and living characteristics of leather, we have selected natural fibres to complement. There are four main categories of fabrics that are incorporated into the fine leather goods, each providing different features that are suitable for certain goods. Using these fabrics provides almost limitless options, while staying rooted to our design principles and the heritage of the firm.
Silk Twill
Silk twill is a distinctive type of silk fabric that stands out among the varieties available. Its distinguishing feature is easily identifiable by its visible diagonal or twill weave texture. The direction of the texture holds a secret: twill slanting to the upper right is typically considered the front, while twill slanting to the upper left is the back.
Twill silk fabrics possess the inherent qualities that make silk so desirable—luxurious, smooth, and soft—while the diagonal weave provides a more robust structure compared to regular silk. This enhances durability and practicality.
The unique texture of silk twill breaks away from the typical lustrous appearance associated with silk, presenting a more understated and restrained look. It strikes a perfect balance between structure and fluidity, allowing it to exude both graceful elegance and formal sophistication. Therefore, you can experiment with various styles and meet your needs for different occasions using silk twill.
The raw material used is silk fiber extracted from silkworm cocoons, which is then processed into strong and resilient yarn. Skilled artisans weave these yarns using a specialized technique known as twill weave on dedicated machines.
In twill weave, the warp threads pass over two weft threads and then under one. This weaving pattern gives rise to the unique texture that characterizes silk twill fabric.
But what sets silk twill apart? The answer lies in its exceptional performance.
Attractive Appearance
The uniqueness of silk twill goes beyond its distinct texture. It boasts a smooth and sophisticated appearance, with the diagonal pattern reflecting light to create elegant lines and a subtle luster. It exudes a gentle and beautiful allure.
Elegant Drape
Silk twill has a structured drape that naturally falls, imparting an exceptionally fluid and graceful look wherever it is worn. It helps conceal minor imperfections and enhances your overall appearance, elevating your presence with a more formal and professional ambiance.
Increased Strength
Silk fibers are among the strongest in the world. Through the twill weaving process, silk twill fabric gains higher strength and durability. It can withstand daily stretching and possesses wrinkle-resistant properties, alleviating concerns in your everyday life.
Natural Breathability
Silk has often been described as a fabric that breathes, emphasizing its exceptional ability to allow air to pass through. Silk twill, with its hollow natural fibers, creates an ideal environment for air circulation. As air flows, it effectively wicks away excess moisture from the body, contributing to the regulation of body temperature and enhancing overall comfort during use.
Vibrant Color Expression
Silk fibers possess excellent dye absorption, and you may have also noticed the textured features on the fabric’s surface, which enhance the dye absorption of silk twill. With the added subtle sheen from the diagonal texture, patterns come to life with increased vibrancy. Silk twill maintains its color brilliance even after washing, retaining its rich hue and luminosity.
Greater Versatility
Are you interested in experimenting with the endless possibilities of silk twill fabric? With the increased strength, it can cater to your diverse needs. Silk twill is not confined to specific occasions, fields, combinations, styles, or forms – it boasts a wide range of applications. With silk twill, you have a wealth of options at your disposal.
Waxed Canvas
In general, waxed canvas (cotton) is a performance fabric that has been treated with a wax coating (but not all wax is the same) to provide water repellant properties. Waxes can include paraffin and petroleum waxes as well as natural waxes and innovative hybrid blends. Waxes and oils are natural substances used to protect against the elements, found in leaves, bean & seed coverings, animal feathers & furs, etc.
Waxed bags and garments can be continually rewaxed to maintain performance, making them more sustainable than synthetic alternatives that end up in a landfill at the end of their useful life. There is also less impact on our natural environment when using waxed canvas products vs. PFC’s (Perfluorochemicals) used in synthetic articles as a water repellant.
For the waxed cotton in any of the products, we have elected to use only HALLEY STEVENSONS, from Dundee, Scotland, a firm established in 1864.
Halley Stevensons is the world’s leading manufacturer and innovator of waxed cotton and weatherproofed fabrics with all production taking place under one roof at Baltic Works in Dundee, Scotland.
Experience at over 150 years, Halley Stevensons has amassed unique technical knowledge, manufacturing expertise, and numerous patents. They specialize in waxed cotton and weatherproofed fabrics using responsibly sourced cotton and low impact manufacturing.
Innovation is the ‘life blood’ as Halley Stevensons takes the approach of innovative thinking and technology with attention to sustainability – designing and building bespoke machines that allow them to process their unique fabrics. As of 2022 the core machines were 3 years old or less.
Sustainability and environmental responsibility is a leading principle of developments and products. As innovators in waxed cotton, HS cottons are sustainably sourced and accredited through global organizations such as OCS (ORGANIC CONTENT STANDARD) and BCI (BETTER COTTON INITIATIVE). They are also part of the BLUESIGN initiative fostering development in responsible textiles with less impact on people and the planet.
Halley Stevensons uses low impact methods for applying waxes to the cotton fabric, unlike most other manufacturing methods for this process. The waxes are fully biodegradable.
Wool
Harris Tweed cloth – Clo Mor (Gaelic for ‘The Big Cloth’) – is the only fabric in the world governed by its own Act of Parliament and the only fabric produced in commercial quantities by truly traditional methods.
Harris Tweed has a rare character and beauty. Hundreds of distinctive patterns have been developed over centuries, each one unique, but unmistakably Harris Tweed.
Unusually, the wool is dyed before being spun, allowing a multitude of colours to be blended into the yarn, creating a cloth of great depth and complexity.
100% Natural
Harris Tweed is made from 100% British wool, naturally renewable, biodegradable and recyclable. Add to this that wool is breathable, wind and waterproof and flame resistant, all without the need for additional finishes.
A Fabric for Life
Harris Tweed is a high performance fabric: durable, requiring minimal laundering, and long lasting. And being made from wool, is fully biodegradable.
Minimizes Environmental Impact
All Harris Tweed mills comply with UK legislative standards, using only 100% wool which is a natural, biodegradable fibre.
A Sustainable Heritage Industry
Harris Tweed is more than a unique handwoven product. Produced only in the Outer Hebrides, Harris Tweed sustains specialist weaving and textile production skills throughout remote rural communities – generating sustainable employment opportunities through generations of islanders.
Find out more about HARRIS TWEED.
Linen
Linen is a textile made from the strong, cellulose fibers of the flax plant, known for its durability, absorbency, and breathability, making it ideal for clothing, bedding, and homewares, especially in warm weather. It dries quickly, wicks moisture, and becomes softer with age, though it is prone to wrinkling. The production process involves extracting, retting (soaking), combing, spinning, and weaving the flax fibers, and linen is also valued as a sustainable and biodegradable fabric.
Durable
Linen is one of the world’s strongest natural fibers, making it a very durable and long-lasting material.
Absorbent
It is highly absorbent and dries faster than cotton, helping to keep the wearer cool and dry.
Breathable
The long, hollow fibers of linen allow for excellent airflow, providing natural temperature regulation.
Hypoallergenic
Linen’s natural properties make it resistant to pilling, resistant to moths and beetles, and suitable for sensitive skin.
Wrinkles
A defining characteristic of linen is its tendency to wrinkle, which is often seen as part of its relaxed and natural charm.
Sustainable
Low Impact: Flax plants require minimal water and can often be grown without pesticides, making linen a more environmentally friendly option than cotton.
Biodegradable: Linen is a fully biodegradable fiber, degrading quickly in soil.
Versatile: The entire flax plant can be used, with the seeds yielding linseed oil and the stems providing fibers for fabric, making the process largely waste-free.